Fork- Old City

A mere blurb…

A recent “business” dinner provided an opportunity to finally experience the Old City restaurant that just this year joined the pantheon of Craig Laban’s 4-Bell Philadelphia restaurant (the highest honor from the Inquirer food critic).  Cassie and I lived in Old City until 2011, a time when Fork recently opened its doors in the OC.  I recollect the small establishment by purchasing fresh baguettes and bread on occasion.  What I remember vaguely as a country general store motif certainly evolved into an enclave of fine dining.  The restaurant is larger than I imagined with a full bar and dining area that seats 100 people, a mere guestimate.  A very cordial, attentive and knowledgable wait-staff maneuvered around the grounds.  The wine and drink selection were extensive; modern mixologists were whipping up sweet tasty Manhattans while the wine list included unique selections from Greece and Croatia.   While many upscale restaurants in Philadelphia and the country offer a great variety of modern cocktails, rarely do I see a wine list with so many countries represented, particularly in wine by the glass options.

If you’ve never had Skrlet wine before it’s probably because the varietal was on the brink of extinction near the end of the 20th century.  There has been a revival through conservation and this grape is grown exclusively in Croatia around the inland city and capitol of Zagreb.  Fork just so happens to have this varietal on the menu and since I’ve never seen it let alone tasted it, my eastern European blood kicked in and I pounced on a glass.  The wine producer is Kosovec (a bottle will usually sell for around $16 if you are able to find it).  I found the taste complex and unique, even somewhat of a ‘chemical, in-a-good-way’ sort of flavor.  Many alcoholic beverages from that area of Europe is meant to grow hair on your chest so I just assumed this uncharted wine was just an acquired taste.  When I later looked it up online, notes of Skrlet are “light and crisply acidic, with fresh aromas ranging from newly cut hay to quince and green apple.”  I got none of these.  

I now think the wine may just have been bad.

But I digress.  

The food was very well imagined and prepared.  I had an appetizer of Cape May conch (I never even knew Cape May had conch), white turnip and ruby grapefruit.  Reminiscent of hamachi, the conch was sliced thin enough not to be too chewy.  The grapefruit did not do too much to add a bright citrus punch.  I like white turnips so that was good.  The two winners of the night were the “lasagna” and smoked monkfish.  The lasagna was not an ordinary Italian baked pasta dish; rather it was more like a delicate crepe.  With red cat cheese, sweet potato, pickled apples and walnuts, this dish could pass for dessert with the rich texture and sweet and savory flavors.  The smoked monkfish, heirloom beans, pickled apples was a flat-out outstanding dish.  I don't believe I ever had monkfish.  This Finding Nemo cameo has a firm texture without a strong flavor.  The preparation was perfect; the fish was very tender and in  a broccoli “gravy” the green veggie and beans complimented the texture of the fish.  I feel a little too much more time on the heat and this fish would be dry jerky.  

The dessert options had a nice variety but were ordinary.  That’s about it for dessert.  I ordered a chocolate hazelnut concoction that was indifferent at best. In short, Fork has a classy atmosphere with some very well prepared selections and some deceptively bad wine.   Granted, I only tried a small selection from the menu but I do not think this OC stop will rank amongst the tops in the city in my book.  I’m glad Old City has an upscale option but I’d rather take my money back to the likes of Vernick, Helm or Abe Fisher.