We love Fishtown. This old residential enclave recently underwent a Renaissance to make this neighborhood appealing to those who seek the trendy. This is not the first neighborhood to pursue fine dining but some of the notable Philadelphia restauranteurs already made their mark on Frankford Ave. with Fette Sau and Frankford Hall. A few blocks from the bustle of the Frankford and Girard corner is William Mulheron’s Sons, a 6-month old restaurant with Italian inspirations. The restaurant is situated next to the el and right across from one of the best dive bars, El Bar. There is quite the contrast between El Bar’s famous $3.50 whiskey shot with PBR can and the grappa selections of WMS that are upward of $20.
First things first, this place has a cocktail special, which is something more places should apply, but the nightly cocktail menu is very interesting as well. The servers are incredibly knowledgable about their libations, even knowing the specific quantity of liquor(s) poured into each drink.
We kicked off our dinner with a few small shared plates which initiated with a hamachi crudo. A solid, fresh, citrusy fare, there is nothing to boast or diminish about our raw fish appetizer.
Next up were dates were stuffed with gorgonzola and wrapped in speck (Austria’s version of prosciutto). The speck gave it the meaty flavor and a nice texture. The flavors were okay but it begged for something extra-mint maybe? Sounds crazy, but it was the first thing that came to mind.
The home made angel hair pasta with black trumpet mushrooms, garlic, fava beans, and parmesan was nothing short of amazing perfection. As the special pasta of the night, we could not pass it up. One of us got flavors of pierogies, the other of lipton pasta packets. You don’t have to think real hard on who came up with each.
Our main courses were a grilled lamb steak with waxed barlotti and roma bean salad. The steak was relatively flat and reminiscent of a ham steak. It was well seared and still exhibited the prototypical lamb flavor. The steak was seasoned, perhaps too much, which gave it a very salty flavor overall.
A real winner was the suckling pig. The cut and preparation of the pig was reminiscent of a well prepared belly; nice crispy sear on the outside with some molten fat and tender meat in the middle. Heirloom shell beans added some earthy hardiness and grappa braised peaches (which were amazing on their own) lent some sugary sweetness to the naturally salty meat.
Something must be said of the outstanding service here, being knowledgable, friendly, patient, and enthusiastic. Outdoor seating is loud with the el right there, but still nice on a warm night. The inside is well decorated and nicely done. A new brand of hand soap/lotion was discovered here (cowshed) that was nothing short of life changing for one of us who is obsessed with herbal and citrus scents.