Helm is hands-down the best farm-to-table restaurant we’ve been to; and we like us some farm-to-table. Helm received considerable press as of late and deservedly so. This place on the northern edge of the Fishtown gentrification opened last year to great reviews from Philadelphia Magazine (#10 on its Top 50 list) and the Philadelphia Inquirer. Almost more impressive than the menu and plates themselves is how this place was started. The two chefs, Kevin d’Egidio and Mike Griffith (whose collective backgrounds include Lacroix, Stateside, Fork, Will BYO) opened the restaurant with a mere $10,000 between the two of them a and little help from their friends and family. (This project involved renovation of the restaurant’s interior, refinishing tables, as well as online deals for chairs.) The result is nicely quaint with simple decor and a most definite “eat local” vibe.
Upon entering the place one notices two chalkboards which serve as the menu and the small yet intimate dining space, 36 chairs in all. There is an old record player in the corner that was unfortunately not churning out tunes during our dinner. The wait staff was very helpful and offer a detailed run-down of the chalkboard menu items. This run-down is extensive and mildly over-whelming. The menu does have a considerable amount of non-conventional concoctions with very conventional, local ingredients. Furthermore, one glance of the starters, entrees and desserts, we noticed not one item was valued over $24. Toss on the fact it is a BYO, you quickly realize you will not leave your entire wallet with the bill. This was a pleasant surprise considering this restaurant is quickly becoming one of the best in the city.
We kick-started our dinner with two starters shared between the two of us. One of their appetizer specials was curry squash with goat cheese inside house-made ravioli, broccoli and fermented pepper paste. Individually, the ravioli was creamy and tasted of fine goat cheese with the curry offering a fuller bodied punch to the creamy center. The broccoli was seared and slightly crispy. Finally, the fermented pepper added a strong kick. However, combine all the ingredients and it tasted like a jalapeño popper. This is not meant to be an insult. You get the creamy cheese, the spicy pepper and the crispy bite comes from the broccoli.
 |
| Ravioli with curry squash, goat cheese, broccoli |
Our second was a dish piled high with Gettysburg apples, guanciale, and smoked shepard cheese. Guanciale is cured pig cheek (imagine a small piece of bacon with more flavor than a whole package of the store-bought stuff). The shaved cheese is a mix of sheep and cow’s milk and tastes similar to manchego. The combo of these flavors with the apple makes the apple, while the most abundant part of the dish, just there for the texture and a little sweetness. Its a great result with plenty of dish to take in.
 |
| The apples |
Regarding entrees, the chicken with spaghetti squash and pilsner malt totally won our hearts. The chicken was a juicy seared breast presented sliced. However, the side that presented with the breast stole the show. Spicy, creamy, spaghetti squash lay atop impeccably prepared greens. Jalapeño was definitely included with the spaghetti squash and this little slap in the mouth was not too overpowering. The squash was also lightly fried on the outside giving it a slight crunch. It actually did complement the chicken well but this savory, spicy dish of various textures was a great way to kick-start the new year.
 |
| Chicken, spaghetti squash, pilsner malt |
The coffee-rubbed pork with braised cabbage (for 18 hours), house made sauerkraut, mushrooms, and arugula pesto was dimmed in comparison to the chicken. It was not a dish to be laughed at however. The pork was nicely done and the cabbage offered some amazing sweet and earthy flavors you don’t traditionally expect with cabbage. The mushrooms rounded out some of the flavors, but there wasn’t much of them to be had in the dish. Overall it was the weakest of the dishes, which doesn’t say anything bad because it was still an impeccably done pork.
 |
| Pork, braised cabbage |
Finally for dessert we had gateau basque (an apple tart with apple butter and buttermilk cream) which quickly translates to all that is heaven. The tart is crispy on the outside and the perfect mix of creamy and flaky that words just don't do justice. The apply apple butter has a distinct caramel taste to to it and the buttermilk cream is more like ice cream. So to put it simply-best dessert ever if I am being honest. The only downside to this part of the meal is the sad lack of tea and coffee options (basic english breakfast and regular or decaf, respectively). To be fair, we are kind of tea and coffee snobs and might expect the full array of options at most places we go to.
 |
| Gateau basque for dessert |
Overall a great start to the year and an amazing standard any farm-to-table should aim to emulate. An added bonus is that we actually know some of the places they get their locally sourced food from. It so happens they get their greens from our very own CSA, Jack’s Farms, an organic vegetable farm based out of Pottstown. A very pleasant surprise to our night and a nice start knowing they get their food form a place we know and trust.
2016, you have a lot to live up to from here on out.
